Back in May, we took a little weekend getaway to Ljubljana, Slovenia. As it turns out, a long weekend is a perfect amount of time to thoroughly experience this southern European city. Relatively speaking, it’s small, but for what it lacks in size, it makes up for in charm. Normally, I’m not one to talk about the “character” or “charm” of different places. However, Ljubljana is a different story.
There was something indescribably attractive about the city that still sticks with me today, several months later. Okay, yes, the mountains are breathtaking and the architecture is fascinating. Still, there is something I can’t quite put my finger on that colors my memories of the city in a pleasant light.
The last leg of the journey from Munich to Ljubljana, cruising through the plains at the base of the Julian Alps.
The reason I’ve titled this post the “not so hidden gem” is to highlight the city’s ascendant popularity among travelers around Europe. Sure, it’s not Paris, London, or Barcelona, but tourism to the city has been growing and travel blogs have been posting “hidden gem” articles for years using that exact phrase. So yeah, it’s not that well known to the people back home, but Ljubljana, and Slovenia generally, are certainly known to those familiar with this corner of Europe.
A Perfect City Trip
Because of its small size, Ljubljana is great for this sort of short city trip. The trip by train from Munich only had one transfer each way, in the Austrian border town of Villach. If I recall correctly, the trip was roughly 6 hours total. Once arriving in Ljubljana, we were able to walk to our Airbnb in about 15 minutes from the train station. Our Airbnb was north of the train station, which is already the northern boundary of the city proper. Normally, I like to stay in or near the hearts of cities when traveling, but we got a great deal somewhat last-minute from the host.
We didn’t have any specific goal or motivation to visit Slovenia instead we just wanted a quick change of scenery. And what beautiful scenery Slovenia provided. From the train ride through the Julian Alps to the hilltop castle overlooking Ljubljana, there was quite a lot to take in.
One of the breathtaking views from the castle on the top of the hill in Ljubljana. Photos with mountain backdrops are my favorite.
First Impressions
Once settled into the Airbnb, we went back out to explore the city and get the lay of the land. The sun was already hanging low in the sky by then, so we decided to not venture too far. We navigated our way around the central part of the city and found a nice restaurant to eat at. It was a nice change from Germany to have very helpful and courteous service again. It’s not that German restaurant service is unfriendly, it’s just efficient and intended to not pester the customer. In any case, after a couple of glasses of wine and a filling meal, we made our way back to the Airbnb for the night. Sometimes it’s nice to take it easy.
Exploring Ljubljana’s City Center
On the second day, we were ready to really explore the city, after first seeking out the obligatory coffee of course. Our first destination was the famous Triple Bridge and the old city area. The Triple Bridge is one of the symbols of the city, and it’s close to the hearts of Slovenia.
Famous Slovenia architect Jože Plečnik created it by expanding the original 1842 stone bridge by adding the two flanking footpaths in a similar style. There is apparently evidence of a bridge on this spot since the late 1200’s, though there is stronger evidence of a bridge on this spot in late 14th century. The Central Square and Triple Bridge area is your portal into the old city of Ljubljana.
Photos of Ljubljana’s City Center
The Open Market
Plečnik also designed the open market of Ljubljana, one if it’s most well-known landmarks. In addition to being a point of interest, the market is a bustling daily market with fresh produce and goods. The market was modeled after the appearance of ancient Roman forums. It was intended to recreate the open public scene in Ljubljana, as a place for the public to find and patronize local grocers and suppliers. To me, it seemed like a great mixture of Viktuanielmarkt in Munich, the Naschmarkt in Vienna, and the Green Market in Split, Croatia.
Summer in Ljubljana: The Open Kitchen
The market area has more to offer. On Fridays from mid-March to mid-October, tons of food stalls from local restaurants pop up to create a weekly foodie paradise. It reminded me of the numerous food trucks circling around the Loop in Chicago at lunchtime. International, as well as local specialties, are served in small portions on the cheap. The Open Kitchen (Odprta Kuhna) hosts both locals and tourists together in a great atmosphere paired with the amazing food selection. It’s a must-visit if you’re in Ljubljana when it’s on.
The Open Kitchen, a great place to eat on Friday afternoons in central Ljubljana.
Congress Square and Star Park
Just a short walk from the market is a large, open, and green park called Star (Zvezda) Park within Congress Square. The square has a couple of nice sights to see and is a generally nice place to be. We found a nice sunny spot to sit, relax, and sip coffees while reading for a while. Surrounding the park is Congress Square, which holds several of the famous and notable buildings in Ljubljana. Among them is the University of Ljubljana, the Ljubljana Philharmonic Concert Hall, and the Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity. All three of these sites are major centers of culture and society in Slovenia.
Ljubljana Castle
The castle at the heart of the old town, Ljubljana Castle, literally towers over the city below. It’s a symbol of the city and probably its main tourist attraction. It has stood in its current form since the late 1400’s, which I found astonishing. It has lasted through Turkish invasions, countless rebellions, Napoleon’s invasions, and the World Wars to boot. However, the real magic of the castle is that it can be seen from nearly anywhere in the city and the hill provides the most amazing views of the city.
From the old city center, the castle grounds are only about 10 minutes up the hillside. Of course, they’re open and free to the public. The castle also offers tours of the interior, but we did not partake. Just exploring the castle grounds and the spectacular views of the city below was enough for us. It may not be the biggest or most impressive castle in Europe, but its location adjacent to and directly above the old city makes it one of the most photogenic.
Photos of the Castle
Returning to Slovenia
Below is a shareable Google map of all the locations I mentioned in this article, plus a few more. We also made a quick visit to the Tivoli Park. This vast green park lies on the opposite side of Ljubljana from the castle. It’s green, relaxing, and as with everything in Ljubljana, easy to get to. The map should also help you get a feel for how walkable the city is.
There is plenty more to tell about our trip to Ljubljana, but I’ll leave it at that. For us, it was a great introduction into Slovenia, having never been there before. I hope that you’ve learned a little about the city yourself. But, even more than that, I hope that you’ll stop over in Ljubljana in your travels. While it’s gathering more attention, it’s still an underrated city. In the new year, we hope to head back to northern Slovenia for some cheap and hopefully sunny alpine skiing. I’ll be sure to let you know if that experience is just as positive because that would be pretty damn welcome.
Have you been to Ljubljana? What were your impressions of this little city? Please leave a comment below with what you think of my impressions of this not-so-hidden gem.
Comments
Too bad that apart from Croatia the Balkan countries are underrated. Your post shows that this is a big mistake. Ljubljana looks just beautiful! Thanx for sharing – and happy travels, Renata
I totally agree – Bosnia and Montenegro are getting more popular too, but really only among the traveler/backpacker community. Croatia has gone full mainstream though, but it deserves it (just like the other Balkan countries). Ljubljana is beautiful, I was actually just back there last month for a day, it is quite a nice little city 🙂 Thanks for your feedback Renata!
sounds like it was a memorable trip. i think last minute ones usually are. so cool you got to explore a new town, Ljubljana looks so charming and a great way to spend a chilled weekend,
You said it perfectly – a charming little town that is great for relaxing weekend trips 🙂 It’s not too hard to get to from Munich either! I recently went back and I think next time we’ll take a train to Salzburg, then to Bled, and hop on a bus from there. That should be faster, I think. Thanks for commenting!
Wow, Ljubljana looks absolutely amazing! I wish I would have taken a weekend getaway here when I was living in Germany. I actually watched a documentary on a restaurant in Slovenia and how the country is still working on figuring out it’s gastronomic identity. It’s such a fun place!
Well, I certainly can vouge for the restaurant scene in Ljubljana – maybe that’s a result of all the restaurants battling out and not being afraid to try new things. The restaurants were refreshingly modern and innovative compared to many here in Munich. I can highly recommend Ljubljana if you’re in the region. Thanks for commenting, Rachelle!
I have never heard of this city but like you said it is not known to many outside of Europe. It seems like a beautiful little town with amazing architecture you expect from Europe. I’m a sucker for castles and I’m glad you were able to write about and see this castle.
It’s a shame it’s not more well known, but it is nice that it’s not totally overrun with tourists yet. There is definitely a tourist presence here and in other popular places in Slovenia like the Lake Bled area. You described it perfectly! Thanks for commenting – I really appreciate it 🙂
That’s a very nice city. I love the way Ljubljana stays quiet and charming despite the urbanization. We would love to visit here and have a latte on the sidewalks. 🙂
Sounds like a perfect way to spend an afternoon, Ljubljana is perfect for that! I would also recommend the many pubs and bars with outdoor seating and a wide variety of brews if you’re in for a nice way to spend an evening there too 🙂
This is a lovely city and I know I would have insisted on a walk or a cycle to explore it all. There seems to be so much to see in those lanes. The Ljubljana Castle does have some lovely views but I wish you would have gone in as well. I would love to know more of what was inside. :). Ah well, maybe some other time. Cheers
It certainly is a lovely city and the castle has lovely views! haha I hope to get back to the city in the next couple of years or so and then I’ll for sure stop in and pay a couple of bucks for a visit inside. If I recall correctly, you can actually rent out the facility for events. THAT would be awesome! Of course, I certainly don’t have the money for that, but I thought it was interesting anyway 🙂 Thanks for stopping by, cheers!
Slovenia is wonderful no doubt And looks like you had a wonderful time here. I guess it’s also because you didn’t head here with any particular plans in mind and just let yourself enjoy whatever you encountered. That really helps sometimes. I guess this was one of the reasons we loved many of the destinations on our recent Europe trip
So very true, Neha. Sometimes you have to just pick a destination and go there with no real plans in mind. I find it best to do this with those nearby spots that are somehow too close to want to visit normally, but you did it for a lot of spots in Europe! That’s what I did back in 2015. I had so much time and more money back then to travel around as I pleased and it was the trip of a lifetime. Glad you enjoyed this method too!
Thanks for sharing. Definitely not a place I would ever think to visit but it seems so charming and old world. I’m going to have to look into Slovenia some more.
Slovenia is definitely well worth a look! I’d also suggest the Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj areas around the edges of Triglav National Park in the northwest. Ljubljana is very much charming and old worldly. Thanks for commenting!
I’m plotting ways to get to Slovenia! Ljubljana looks really cute and underrated but, I never too much about it. The streets look super clean and quaint. It must be fairly close to Predjama Castle? It’s on my bucket list.
aaaaaannd now Predjama Castle is on MY bucket list. I think I saw something about the castle online a while back but never really marked it down. Well, anyway, it’s not in Ljubljana but it also isn’t too far away. There might be public buses that drive down there, and there will definitely be shuttle and tour bus services I’d say.
Ljubljana is a great little city! It’s just a nice place to spend a few days relaxing and soaking in the charming atmosphere. Thanks for the tip and for the feedback! Cheers